Recipes

The term adobado is used for a traditional method of cooking in which the meat is left to marinate for up to three days in a mixture of garlic, paprika, cumin, herbs, olive oil, and vinegar or wine. I first tasted this fabulous pork dish when Madrid-based Tomás Herranz came to cook as a guest-chef at my San Francisco restaurant, Square One. Like many talented cooks, Tomás didn't measure anything, nor did he work from a written recipe. But I paid close attention, and this is his version of lomo de cerdo adobado. Here, I have cooked the pork on a grill, as he did at the restaurant, but you may also roast it in a 350°F (180°C) oven, allowing 45–60 minutes for the loin or about 25 minutes for the tenderloins.

1 boneless pork loin, 2–3 lb (1–1.5 kg), tied, or 2 pork tenderloins, about 1 lb (500 g) each
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 ½ tablespoons finely minced garlic
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 teaspoon salt, plus salt to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus pepper to taste
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) dry sherry or dry white wine

Trim off any excess fat from the pork and place the meat in a shallow nonaluminum container.

In a small frying pan over low heat, combine the olive oil, garlic, and oregano and heat for 2 minutes to release their aromas. Whisk in the paprika, cumin, thyme, bay leave, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and the wine and cook for 1 minute over low heat.

Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature. When fully cooled, pour the marinade over the meat and rub it in well. Cover and refrigerate for at least overnight or for as long as 2–3 days.

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a broiler (griller).

Lift the pork from the marinade and pat dry. Sprinkle the pork lightly with salt and pepper. Place on the grill rack or on a broiler pan slipped under the broiler and grill or broil, turning as needed to brown well on all sides, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 147°F (64°C), about 10 minutes for the tenderloins and 20 minutes for the loin. Alternatively, test the pork by cutting into it with a sharp knife; the meat should be lightly pink at the center.

Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let rest for a few minutes. Slice and then arrange the slices on a warmed platter. Serve at once.

Serves 4–6