Recipes

Savory is possibly the most underappreciated herb in this country. I fell in love with it many years back when I was cooking in France. There, it's used in the traditional seasoning mix herbes de Provence and added to all types of stews, ragoûts, and sauces. Its aroma—earthy, slightly sweet, and a little bit peppery—reminds me of the brush-covered hillsides where we played growing up. Winter savory, summer savory's seasonal opposite, is more robust in flavor but would be a fine substitute in this recipe. If you can't find either of the savories, substitute a combination of equal amounts of thyme, rosemary, and mint.

This isn't a difficult dish to make, but it does require some last-minute multitasking. Have your prepared ingredients—or, as we say in the kitchen, your mise en place—ready to go. Be sure that your herbs are chopped, the vinaigrette is made, the crème fraîche is mixed, and your seasonings are in reach.

This dish is a great way to initiate the unconverted to the Church of the Fava Bean. The potatoes and favas are mashed together with butter and finished with pea shoots and a vibrant Meyer lemon salsa. The seared halibut goes on top with a dollop of savory crème fraîche.

NOTE You can make the Meyer lemon salsa and the savory crème fraîche earlier in the day. You could also boil and smash the potatoes ahead of time.

6 filets halibut, 5 to 6 ounces each
1 Meyer lemon, zested
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
2 tablespoons sliced flat-leaf parsley
1¼ pounds small fingerling potatoes
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ cups shucked fava beans, from 2 pounds in the pod
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces pea shoots
Savory crème fraîche (recipe follows)
Meyer lemon salsa (recipe follows)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Season the halibut with the lemon zest, thyme, and parsley. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

Remove the fish from the refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking to bring it to room temperature.

Place the potatoes in a medium pot, cover with cold water (by at least 4 inches), and add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pierced. Reserve a cup of the water and strain the potatoes. When the potatoes have cooled, slightly smash them with the heel of your hand.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the butter, smashed potatoes, and ¾ teaspoon salt. Stir to coat the potatoes with the butter. Add the fava beans and a few tablespoons of the reserved potato water to the pan. Turn off the heat and cover while you cook the fish.

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (You may need to cook the fish in batches or in two pans.) Swirl in the olive oil and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until it's lightly browned. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a few more minutes until it's almost cooked through. Be careful not to overcook the fish. When it's done, it will begin to flake and separate a little and the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the halibut will continue to cook a bit more once you take it out of the pan.

Turn the heat under the potatoes up to medium, uncover, and heat the potatoes and favas until hot through. Toss in the pea shoots and cook about 1 minute, stirring to combine until the pea shoots are just wilted. Taste for seasoning. Spoon the potatoes onto a large warm platter, dot half the crème fraîche over them, and spoon half the lemon salsa on top. Arrange the halibut over the potatoes and spoon the remaining crème fraîche and lemon salsa over each piece of fish.

Savory Crème Fraîche

2 teaspoons savory leaves
¾ cup crème fraîche
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the savory leaves to a paste. Add the crème fraîche and use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides and combine well. Season with a teaspoon salt and a pinch of black pepper.

Meyer Lemon Salsa

2 to 3 large Meyer lemons
2 tablespoons finely diced shallots
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon minced savory
1 tablespoon sliced mint
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut both ends off the Meyer lemons. Place the lemons cut side down on a cutting board. Following the contour of the fruit with your knife, remove the peel and white cottony pith, working from top to bottom and rotating the fruit as you go. Then, one at a time, hold each lemon in your hand and carefully slice between the membranes and the fruit to release the segments in between. Discard the seeds and reserve the juice. You should have about ¼ cup of segments and ¼ cup of juice.

Place the lemon juice in a small bowl and add the shallots and ¼ teaspoon salt. Let sit 5 minutes and slowly whisk in the olive oil. Stir in the lemon segments, savory, mint, and parsley. Taste for balance and seasoning.

More from Sunday Suppers at Lucques:

Sauté of White Asparagus, Morels, and Ramps Over Polenta

1970s Moms' Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake

Excerpted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table
Copyright © 2007 by Suzanne Goin and Teri Gelber. All rights reserved.