Recipes

Wrapping these little packets in caul fat is a very traditional preparation for pork liver throughout Italy. I love the way it holds the flavor of the orange zest and sage right against the meat, even as the fat cooks away. If you cannot find caul fat, chop the zest and sage together finely and sprinkle over the dish at the end. The softer the better as far as the polenta goes, so add the cornmeal to the water slowly and use a little less rather than a little more. Don't worry, it will thicken.

1½ pounds calf's liver, skin removed
1 cup milk
½ pound caul fat
Zest of 1 orange
12 sage leaves
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup quick-cooking polenta
or yellow cornmeal
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup fig vinaigrette (page 240)

1. Cut the liver into twelve 1½-inch cubes and place in a bowl with the milk. Soak for 1 hour.

2. Cut the caul fat into twelve 7-inch squares. Place H teaspoon orange zest and 1 sage leaf in the center of each square. Place a piece of liver atop the orange zest and season with salt and pepper. Wrap the liver up into little bundles and set aside.

3. Heat 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan and add the polenta in a thin stream, whisking constantly. When all of the polenta is added, season with 1 teaspoon salt, cook for 3 minutes, and set aside, covered in plastic.

4. In a nonstick pan, heat the oil over high heat until smoking. Cook the liver bundles in the pan for 4 to 5 minutes per side, working in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan.

5. Spoon ½ cup of polenta onto the center of each of four warmed dinner plates, place two pieces of liver on top, drizzle with the vinaigrette, and serve.