By Caitlin Coe
Call it Pygmalion, My Fair Lady, even Six Degrees of Separation—no matter the name, the timeless story of a pro coaching a novice through the phases of cultural edification is always a fun read. Hence, the tale of Educating Peter, wherein our heroine, Lettie Teague, wine editor for Food & Wine magazine, takes her dear friend Peter Travers, movie critic for Rolling Stone magazine, on a journey of exploration and experimentation through the wonderful world of wine. For the newbie wine-o like me, this is the perfect way to learn tips and explanations from one of the biggies in the business without having to admit to anybody that you don't know your Burgundy from your Bordeaux! And no, it doesn't read like a Bernard Shaw play; it's more like a great romp through the vineyards and wine cellars of some of the world's most revered winemakers and collectors—think The Devil Wears Prada meets Sideways.
Our story begins with what is often, unfortunately, one of the scariest aspects of learning wine: how to taste. Call me nutty, but drinking the wine should be one of the most fun parts of learning about wine, right? Not a test that makes your pulse run a bit faster in fear that you may disappoint your waiter. Happily, Teague presents this lesson, as the others in the book, with humor and a sense of respect. To swirl or not to swirl? Go for it, and don't be afraid to stick your nose in there afterward! It may look a bit pretentious, or get your nose damp, but it's actually a helpful little thing to do, as smelling your wine is an important part of determining its potential taste and quality. Aged wine is always better than young wine, right? You'd be surprised…
Next, we're on to the grapes (or varietals) themselves: specifically, a group of Teague's favorites among those classified as "noble" (i.e., the ones we've all heard of): Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. Along with Peter we learn the origins, characteristics, and even bad clichés of these varietals. And along with Teague, we learn Travers's opinions and initial reactions to each: "Ouch," "I can't see through this," and "Are you saying old Riesling tastes like a gas station?" are just a few of his choice zingers. "Never be afraid to ask a silly question or express an uneducated opinion" is an unwritten mantra throughout this book, which is, frankly, exactly what everyone who is just wading into the wine world really wants to hear. But just to make sure you're fully armed for your next tasting night at your local wine bar, Teague includes a solid vocabulary list, as well as tips on identifying wines based strictly on their bottle-shape and color.
The bulk of Travers's education, and consequently the book, revolves around tours of Old and New World wines. From France and Italy to Argentina and (my personal favorite) California, Teague leads Travers through a remarkable worldwide tour in a glass. Now, I'll grant you that some of the wines they encounter may never pass through your lips or mine: we're talking a $250 bottle of "Super Tuscan" Merlot, a $350 bottle of Spanish Pingus, and even an obscene $4,000 Screaming Eagle Cabernet. I told you she was a biggie in the wine business—she's got an all-access pass! And while it's a fun fantasy to read about how such gems may taste (similar to reading about how someone feels wearing the Hope Diamond), these stories are the exceptions, not the rule. Rather, Teague introduces Travers to many excellent little finds that that you and I can enjoy for less than $20! If you're inclined to read about wines within a reference guide, which can be handy and helpful, I think you'll find that the interactive dialogue Teague offers as she and Travers discuss each wine is much more fun and makes the wine enticing on a whole different level than a point system would. Plus, for those who really want to prove their prowess after Teague's lessons or just wow their friends at the next dinner out, there's even a final exam you can take at the end of the book (you'll have to read the book to see how Travers fared).
As one who is doing her best to get a grasp on the whole wine thing, from grape to glass, I find Teague's lessons invaluable. She acts as a personal sommelier, teaching with humor and a wealth of knowledge—she opens the door for Travers, and subsequently for us, to try an incredible variety of wines without judgment or pretension. Like the movies Travers is often referring to, wine is all about your personal taste and preference—if you like it, then it's good, and the more you learn, the better "good" becomes! By the end of your journey with Travers, not only will you be talking about "volatizing your esters" (this has nothing to do with violence towards aunts, I swear) and wearing vests as a badge of honor, but you'll have gained a great fund of knowledge about wine varietals, winemaking, and wine regions. And here's the best part: Now you can crack that huge wine list at your favorite restaurant, select with authority, and swirl away with pride!
Caitlin Coe's Picks: Favorites of a Wine Novice
Zinfandel: Pezzi King Maple Vineyard 2003
Cabernet Sauvignon: Ceja 2002
Syrah: Montpelier 2000
Pinot Noir: Saintsbury Garnet 2005
Petite Sirah: Girard 2003
Red Blend: Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant 2003
Chardonnay: Larson Family Estate 2004
Sauvignon Blanc: Passalacqua 2005 Alexander Valley
White Blend: Conundrum
Muscat Canelli: Benziger 2004
Port: Wellington 2002
Dessert Wine: Ferrari Carano El Dorado Noir 2004
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